The Alliet 2008 Chinon Vieilles Vignes – assembled, as usual, from various sand and gravel parcels, and bottled last April – displays an impressive combination of substantiality with juicy refreshment, tart blackberry, mulberry and tomato seasoned with herbs and exuding just a hint of asparagus. Salty and bright, with brash berry and discreet vegetal elements in its finish, I would plan to drink this over the coming year while it is still exuberant in its modestly-ripe way. Philippe Alliet thinks his 2009s will surpass his 2005s in elegance, and comparing the 2005s today I hazard the guess that the fruit of his 2009s will stay fresh longer as well. 2009 will be the first commercialize-able vintage here in white wine, but that opulent, 14.6% alcohol wine – while it nevertheless displayed luscious potential – had not even finished its alcoholic fermentation when I visited in late June! Interestingly Alliet opined that 2008 was – in contrast with 2007 – uniform enough in ripeness that no significant triage was required. But I found precisely the more seamless ripeness of his top 2007s their advantage over 2008.A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300. Also imported by Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA 94708; tel. (510) 559 1040