This Spatlese is extraordinary, hovering in that zone bordering perfection in which wines touch the soul. The 2002 Riesling Spatlese Oberhauser Brucke exhibits aromas and flavors of cherry-drenched quartz, raspberries, minerals, as well as steel. Medium-bodied, muscular, powerful, and masculine, it is an oily-textured, broad-shouldered wine of spectacular depth and length. This concentrated, harmonious behemoth will be at its best between 2010 and 2030. All Hail the King of Spatlese! Donnhoff’s line-up of Spatlesen is second to none. For the second year in a row, Helmut Donnhoff has left me shaking my head in wonder. Having tasted the greatest wines in the world, year in and year out, as a wine merchant and as a critic, did not prepare me for the awe-inspiring experience of tasting through Donnhoff’s 2001s and 2002s. They are magical, emotional, breath-taking. My words cannot do them justice. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300