Mikulski’s 2006 Meursault – incorporating a minority share of Narvaux with fruit from lower elevation – displays citric brightness and zesty pungency, ripe peach nectar, and piquant, pithy, toasted nut low-tones. A refreshing and invigorating interpretation of its appellation, this should be worth following for at least 3-4 years from bottling. The citric, peachy, pithy, positively briny 2005 was impressively concentrated and cut from similar cloth. Francois Mikulski has been working his uncle, Henri Boilot’s vines for fifteen vintages, and his relatively lean but pristine wine making style is as distinctive as is his (lack of any conventional) label. In retrospect, Mikulski says, he wishes he had started picking just before the 2006 ban de vendange, rather than a couple of days later, but he is happy to have finished wines hovering around 13.5% alcohol, low for the vintage. A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70