The 2007 Grand Reserve Merlot, also from Sonoma, is a slightly bigger wine with similar character but more density and more fruit. The lowest level of the Kendall-Jackson empire, the Vintner’s Reserve series, goes from strength to strength. For consumers hoping to maximize their dollar value, these serious wines are consistent choices. Their Chardonnay has always been good, but dramatic increases in quality have taken place in the Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon programs.Tel. (800) 769-3649; kjwines@kj.com

Very rich, ripe and dry, a Merlot with a drop of Cabernet that needs a year or two to resolve. It’s fat and fleshy in cherries, violets, red currants and cola, with a dusting of cocoa, pepper and cinnamon. The tannins are ample, but very finely ground. Hold until 2011.——S.H.(5/1/2010)—— 90