The 2009 Barolo Bricco Sarmassa takes the Nebbiolo experience to dazzling heights. The power and heft of the wine is immediately apparent and the wine fills the palate, front to back. It’s a wine of fascinating juxtapositions. At one moment it feels astringent, the next it feels silky and long. The aromas are floral, then savory, then spicy in what is a constantly shifting and evolving aromatic presentation. The wine gains intensity and purity as it airs in the glass and this bodes well for its long-term potential. I’d love to revisit this wine in 10 or 15 years. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2040. Brezza offers a beautiful window into the fascinating world of traditional Barolo. If you truly love that style, these are wines you will definitely want to enjoy and collect. Various American Importers, including: Acid Inc. Selections, New York, NY; tel. (917) 687-4848; P&S Wine Company, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 265-3155; Ideal Wine & Spirits, Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300