Though I was not a fan of the 2002, I was enraptured by the 2003 Merlot. Chocolate, cassis liqueur, cherries jubilee, spices, and violets are found in its magnificent aromatics. Aged in 80% new oak (of which 80% is French and the balance Pennsylvanian), this concentrated gem slathers the palate with black raspberries, spices, copious quantities of cherries, and blackberries that envelope its significant tannin. Projected maturity: now-2016. Tel. (509) 525-1428; www.leonetticellar.com

Intense and concentrated, this puts to rest any ideas that Merlot is incapable of making “real” wine. The flavors are smooth and chocolaty, the mouthfeel liquorous, ripe and lush. High-toned fruits and flowers slide into the mellow tannins, all resolving in a superripe, decadently rich finish. ——P.G.(12/15/2005)—— 93