This bottling, which is Randall Grahm’s hommage to the Northern Rhone, has varied over the vintages, but with this 2006, hits the mark as never before. Made with a splash of Grenache, it’s full-bodied, bone dry and compelling in the intricacy of flavors. The blackberries, black cherries, licorice, and raspberries have elements of roasted meats and wild mushrooms sauteed in butter, tamari and a few drops of balsamic, liberally dusted with black pepper. Unique and compelling, and should develop over the next six years. ——S.H.(8/1/2009)—— 93