There are 3000 cases of the 2006 Reserve Merlot, a multi-regional blend, which contains 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Cabernet Franc. It was aged in 70% new French oak and 30% American oak for 25 months. This purple-colored offering gives up a nose of pain grille, mineral, earth notes, and black currant. Medium-bodied, on the palate it is slightly lean and a bit short in the finish. The flavors are tasty but the wine lacks stuffing. Drink it over the next several years. Columbia Crest, part of the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, is Washington’s largest winery. It produces mammoth amounts of wine (2,000,000+ cases) at a remarkably high level of quality. A visit to the cellars reveals brilliant organization, high morale, and a sense of personal involvement by the staff that undoubtedly adds value to the finished wine.Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

Sweet cherry fruit, slathered in whiskey barrel new oak flavors (25 months in both French and American barrels) is the story here. It’s still sharp and oaky, and needs decanting and/or another couple of years in bottle to round out and hopefully assimilate that new oak.——P.G.(12/31/2009)—— 88