Here’s a Pinot Blanc that’s not a Chardonnay lookalike, with its melange of wildflower and tropical fruit aromas. There’s something almost Rhone-like in the opulence of its flavors, with chocolate, honey, brown-crushed spice and nectarines in a crisp wine with a long finish. It misses a few points because of a certain lack of complexity, but flavor freaks won’t be disappointed by this jolting wine. ——S.H.(2/1/2001)—— 88