The 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena Villa Arvedi seems engineered for Amarone-curious consumers who may not be familiar with this intensly aromatic Italian red wine. The wine doesn’t offer the exaggerated bulk and muscle of other well-known brands. Instead, it presents a focused bouquet with elements of cassis, dried cherry, tobacco, resin and black licorice. It reaches a state of elegant intensity that is also suitable for near-term consumption. Drink 2014-2020. Anyone who frequented Verona’s famed Bottega del Vino wine bar in its glory days will remember the Bertani “altar” set up in the downstairs cellar. Carefully erected under its own pool of light, the shrine consisted of important vintages arranged into a giant pyramid with magnum-sized wooden cases at the base. Small church candles flickered at the perimeter. That altar to a single brand, so revered and holy to the Veronesi, always comes to mind when I taste Bertani’s wines. This cherished symbol of Valpolicella is a beacon for those who appreciate the storied winemaking customs of the region. In 2011, Bertani was purchased by Tenimenti Angelini (a branch of the Angelini Group pharmaceutical firm). Despite the new ownership, Bertani remains one of the most consistent producers of traditional Amarone. Importer: Palm Bay Imports, www.palmbay.com