The 2007 VINHA DA DEFESA BRANCO is in this brand name’s tradition, a crisp wine that is usually available (21,000 cases produced, 500 imported) and provides value for the money, although exchange rate fluctuations have had some impact. It is basically the same wine as the Reserva, a blend of Arinto, Roupeiro and Antao Vaz, a familiar trio of white grapes in Alentejo, but whereas the Reserva has an oaky overlay, this is bright and pure, aged in stainless steel, and intended to be a bit on the grassy side. It seems less herbaceous this year than in prior recent vintages, but it is pungent, with a juicy, mouthwatering finish. My experience is that this becomes rounder and softer in six to twelve months, but you may like the exuberance of the wine young better. Drink now-2010. Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843

Ripe and tropical, this is a full wine that captures the warmth of the Alentejo. The acidity offers some freshness along with the citrus edge, but the fruits are much more tropical, rich in mango and lychee spice.——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 85