Harvested at the end of the second week in November from vines planted in 1990 in the nose bleed elevations of the Hinterseiber vineyard, the 2005 Riesling Smaragd Wachstum Toni Bodenstein did not succumb to botrytis. Ample ventilation, plus the fact that ripeness always comes late here and the fruit stayed firm, and high acid through the rain staved-off rot. Piquantly-scented and flavored with lime zest, toasted nut oils, and honey, this displays a striking combination of thickness, richness, opulence and density with a dynamic interplay of fruit and mineral, and a lively, not entirely integrated acidity. There is a note of finishing bitterness, more from sheer concentration than from botrytis. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Smaragd Kaiserberg ($42.00; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700