After this wine’s identity was revealed, we naturally wondered if we hadn’t underrated it. It ranks among the best of the Barbarescos, but not at the very top as we had expected. Leather, Asian spices and citrus peel, anise and dried cherries provide remarkable complexity and mouthfilling flavors without ever seeming overdone. Tannins cut short the finish, but they’re chewy and rich, and will support this wine’s growth for decades to come. ——W.E.(4/2/2004)—— 91