Leflaive's 1989 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is still a very youthful wine as it approaches its 30th birthday, blossoming in the glass with aromas of ripe citrus fruit, beeswax, fresh peach, white flowers and warm bread. On the palate, it's full-bodied, muscular and concentrated, with a vibrant and tight-knit core that's still quite firmly structured, concluding with a long and resonant finish. With a pH of 3.36 and fully 14.4% alcohol, this is analytically the ripest wine in this tasting, yet it is exquisitely balanced and can age for another two decades in a good cellar.