Icario is a new house in the appellation, but there is plenty of capital behind the venture and, to judge from the first wines, a real desire for quality. The 2001 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is a good start, a medium ruby-garnet but with an interesting nose of red berry fruit, smoke, and tar, a palate of some volume and depth, good freshness and fleshiness on the finish. The wine needs a bit more personality, but there’s no point in expecting immediate miracles. Drink: 2005-2012. Importer: Vinifera, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907