The 2009 St. Romain comes across as a bit more reserved than the Bourgogne. White stone fruits, pears and flowers are some of the notes that take shape in this clean, engaging Burgundy. I especially like the tension and crispness of the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. I found myself most attracted to the entry-level wines at Matrot. A number of the basic offerings are absolutely joyous, but the more important wines aren’t markedly more complex in my view. Only the villages-level Meursault is disappointing. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802