This great estate run with obsessive perfection by visionary proprietor Bernard Magrez has turned out a second wine, the 2012 Le Clementin de Pape Clement, which is rather remarkable. Deep ruby/purple it is superior to nearly every vintage of Pape Clement in the 1970s and early 1980s. Deep ruby/purple with notes of plum, cassis, tobacco leaf and licorice, the wine is medium-bodied, with sweet, supple tannin and a long heady finish. This is drinking well already, while also showing some burgeoning complexity. It should last for at least 10-15 years.

Readers should also check out the second wine, the 2012 Le Clementin du Pape Clement. It enjoys much of the same character as its bigger sibling, but is just less intense and full.