A great showing, Bonneau's 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Marie Beurrier has lots of garrigue, kirsch, truffle and spice to go with the classic gamy, bloody meaty-like quality that's always present in his wines. Medium to full-bodied, nicely concentrated, and sweetly fruited, it has fine tannin and a beautiful elegance that keeps you coming back to the glass. There's no baby fat here and it's at full maturity, but will certainly hold for a decade.