My favorite of this trio is the elegant, classic, seemingly fully mature 2001 Trilogy, a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Displaying beautiful finesse and richness as well as a layered mouthfeel, it offers up notes of red and black currants, hints of blue fruits and raspberries, camphor, sweet oak, forest floor and underbrush. This complex red could easily pass for a top-notch Bordeaux given its finesse and overall balance. It should continue to provide pleasure for a decade or more. Tel. (707) 963-5711; Fax (707) 963-7518

Comes down on the tough side, with tannins that bury the fruit. Clearly a young, rather aggressive wine, but one whose deep core of black cherry and blackberry fruit has good potential. Cellar for a good six years. ——S.H.(9/1/2004)—— 90