The superb 2005 Gigondas Les Reinages exhibits a cooler climate personality. It is deep ruby/purple-colored with hints of menthol, black cherries, raspberries, and crushed rocks offered in a medium-bodied, elegant, almost Burgundian style. It, too, should be drunk over the next decade. As I have written many times in the past, this famous estate, which muddled along in the seventies, eighties, and early nineties, was reborn when its owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne enterprise, brought in the super-talented Jacques Granges, and gave him carte blanche to redo the cellars and elevate the level of quality. Since his first vintage, 1997, Delas has become one of the superb purveyors of high quality Rhone wine. I have enormous admiration for what Granges has accomplished. His most recent vintages, 2005 and 2006, have been brilliant and he continues to do a superb job with the white wines Readers should also know that Delas recently purchased 37 acres of vines in Crozes-Hermitage, so they will be augmenting their production from that appellation. The bottled 2005 reds include some interesting efforts from some of the better villages in the south. The Chateauneuf du Papes and Cotes du Rhones were reviewed in issue #173 (October, 2007) Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

A strong effort, the 2005 Gigondas is primarily Grenache with 10% Syrah included in the blend (the latter component being aged in tank rather than foudre). An inky/ruby/purple color is followed by aromas of crushed rocks, black raspberries, sweet cherries, and spice. Medium-bodied and elegant, this cuvee is reminiscent of a fine red Burgundy. It should drink well for a decade. While Delas has done a phenomenal job with their Northern Rhone selections, their Southern cuvees (which are all negociant wines made from purchased juice and/or grapes) have lagged behind in quality. However, manager Jacques Grange is making every effort to rectify this situation, and this quartet is the finest I’ve tasted.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Ripe and juicy, with a core of fresh cassis and plum fruit layered with sweet, integrated toast and followed by a long, ripe, licorice-filled finish. Drink now through 2011. 830 cases made. -JM