The straw and slightly-golden-hued Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux (harvested at over 14% natural sugar - extraordinary in Burgundy) exhibits super-ripe tropical fruit and floral aromas with notes of bee's wax in the background. This thick, extraordinarily well-balanced and full-bodied wine is densely packed with sweet, candied citrus fruits. With an admirably long finish, it is built to last. Anticipated maturity: 1999-2005. As Daniel Haas, this estate's US importer put it so succinctly, "Thierry hates new oak in white wine." Thierry Matrot, the gentleman in question, runs this domaine which bears his grandfather's name. In 1995, both his red and white offerings show perfectly ripe fruit, which, in the case of the whites, is particularly important as no new oak flavors are present to mask any flaws in the fruit. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.