There is no need to worry about the harmony among the diverse elements in the spectacularly black/purple-colored 1998 Cornas Vieilles Vignes (125 cases produced). It boasts an extraordinary bouquet of violets, truffles, black raspberries, cassis, and blackberries. Super-rich and extremely full-bodied (it achieved 13% natural alcohol), this profound Cornas needs 5-6 years of cellaring, and will keep for 20-25 years. An amazing effort! A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42 84 38 22), various American importers, including Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; tel. (415) 467-0130, Atlantic Importing Co., Newton, MA; tel. (617) 965-2933, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625

Well-made, but muscular and burly for now. Balanced by acidity, fresh fruit and a solid tannin structure. Shows some grilled meat, smoked bacon and spicy black pepper character. Succulent, verging on crisp on the firm finish. Best from 2002 through 2008. 250 cases made.??–PM??Region: France / Northern Rh?ne / Cornas Select to Add