The 2009 Dolcetto d’Alba is a pretty, mid-weight wine with good varietal character and lovely textural finesse but not much overall complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. These entry-level releases from Bruno Giacosa are well-made but frankly offer little to get truly excited about. Perhaps it is the preponderance of 2008s in this lineup, but I would like to think Giacosa could coax a little more magic from his smaller wines. On a more positive note, a recent comprehensive tasting of Giacosa’s Baroli and Barbareschi found the wines in great shape. I will report on that tasting on www.erobertparker.com For now, let me just say that the 2004s are living up to my lofty expectations. The 2003s are surprisingly fresh, while the 2005s show remarkable balance and classiness. Giacosa’s 2007 Barbareschi were reviewed in Issue 185. Other recent additions to our database include complete notes on the 1989s and 1990s, plus a nearly complete vertical of the icon Barolo Vigna Rionda going back to 1967.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

A spicy version, with black pepper, blackberry and cocoa powder notes, all converging on the firm finish. The tannins are ripe, and this lingers nicely. Drink now through 2013. 600 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Dolcetto d'Alba Select to Add