The 2005 Sperss is simply gorgeous in its layers of super-ripe black fruit, smoke, licorice, French oak, new leather and spices. As is the case with most wines in this vintage, the 2005 Sperss is relatively compact and two-dimensional yet it offers outstanding balance in an easygoing style for this wine. Gaja’s vineyards in Serralunga are some of the best-exposed plots in the zone, and that clearly was a help here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Angelo Gaja’s 2005s from the Barolo zone don’t match the level of his wines from Barbaresco, which are far more harmonious and complete in this vintage. Although Gaja is one of Italy’s most consistent producers, these wines prove that, despite his considerable gifts, he is human. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900