Even more concentrated and densely-constructed than the Clos du Fonteny, the Clair 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers smells of ripe blackberries, strong coffee, licorice and wet stone. Superbly-ripe but abundant tannins undergird a mouthful of ripe fruit, with strong mineral character grabbing the baton in the final lap. This embryonic bundle of fruit, mineral and energy will I suspect need at least 5-7 years to properly give of itself. Bruno Clair and his long-time cellar master Philippe Brun persist in rendering Pinots of uncompromising structure and fruit acid retention that are by no means long on youthful charm. Their 2005 collection was all still in barrel, from which I did selected tasting rather than (with one already assembled exception) tasting an at all precise reflection of the final blend. A small percentage of whole clusters was employed on the Gevrey crus, rising to 20% in the Clos de Beze. Brun decides whether or not to filter based on the character of the vintage and the result of trials. In 2005, he won’t. A couple of the Marsannays here were showing a rather awkward alternation between bright fresh fruit acidity and caramelized faintly wood tones, but admittedly, with larger cuvees, that is a tricky thing to judge prior to assemblange. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay Vaudenelles ($32.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Marsannay Grasse Tetes ($39.00; 85-87+?). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802