The 2009 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is a brilliant wine that's evolving at a glacial pace. Unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, crisp orchard fruit, fresh bread, struck match and beeswax, it's full-bodied, deep and satiny, with a concentrated and tightly wound core, racy girdling acids and chalky structuring extract. Long and resonant, this impeccably blanched wine is impressively youthful for the vintage, and while it's immensely compelling today, it will be even better with another decade on the clock. This is one of the wines of the vintage in the C?te de Beaune.

There is just one barrel of the 2009 Batard-Montrachet, which is a shame, as the wine is marvelous. This is a breathtaking, rich Batard endowed with layers of expressive fruit. Minerals and all sorts of crushed rocks frame the intensely pointed, chiseled finish. The Batard remains fresh, vibrant and weightless in a kaleidoscopic, dazzling style that only great white Burgundy is capable of delivering. Anticipated maturity: 2016+. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is one of Burgundy’s most exciting young producers. Colin-Morey works with six hectares of vineyards, three of which are estate owned, while the rest are sources of purchased fruit. According to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, the key to 2009 was picking early. The harvest started on the September 4. Colin-Morey did a long, slow press, with no batonnage once the wines were in barrel, all with the aim of preserving as much freshness as possible given the natural ripeness of the fruit. Roughly 80% of the wines were aged in 350-liter barrels, larger than the norm in Burgundy. Colin-Morey finished bottling the 2009s in April 2011. Colin-Morey told me he wasn’t enthused about the 2009s at first, but now thinks the wines have enough freshness to age well.A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Complex, alluring aromas of lime blossom, smoke and spice complement the peach and apple flavors in this powerful, yet detailed white. The very long aftertaste features grapefruit, apple and spice notes. Best from 2014 through 2024. 50 cases made, 6 cases imported.??–BS??Region: France / Burgundy / Batard-Montrachet Select to Add