The 2009 Aleatico Pomele is the red grape alter-ego to the Passiro. Perfumed, spiced red cherries waft from the glass, showing lovely inner perfume in a fresh style suited for near-term drinking. This is a moderately sweet dessert wine with 100 grams of residual sugar per liter. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Proprietor Riccardo Cotarella is a fountain of energy. Cotarella is best known for his numerous consulting projects, but in recent years he has devoted considerable attention to reviving some of the indigenous and obscure varieties found in Lazio and Umbria. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Pomele is a sweet red wine made from the Aleatico grape that could pair with salty and sweet foods. The wine offers bright tones of black cherry, blackberry and a touch of exotic spice. ——M.L.(12/31/2010)—— 90