The 2011 Pinot Noir Ryan Widdoes Vineyard stands out for its deep, implosive personality. Juicy dark cherries, incense, hard candy and spices all flesh out in this large-scaled, voluptuous Pinot. This is a surprisingly structured powerful wine with a seemingly bright, bright future. Today, the smokiness from the medium-toast Remond barrels is a bit noticeable, but if that element subsides over time, I expect the 2011 Ryan will come at the high end of my rating. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2023. Winemaker Andy Smith describes 2009 as a “sweet, forward vintage,” while 2011 is more “dynamic and commercial.” Smith reserves his highest praise for 2010, which he calls his favorite among the three current vintages. In 2011, Smith bulked out 20% of his Pinot Noirs, including the entire production of the Eoin. All the 2011 Pinots came in before the rains. Smith used whole clusters only for the Aidan, as botrytis was an issue in all the other Pinot vineyards. The Charles Heintz Chardonnay came in after the rains. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to taste the 2011 Syrahs, as the final blends had not yet been put together at the time of this tasting. In broad terms, the DuMol Chardonnays are all fermented and aged in barrel, with no lees stirring. Some of the wines are aged in slightly larger 300-liter barrels, and at times the malolactic fermentations are partly blocked, which results in wines that are texturally rich but also full of energy, a combination that is rare and hard to achieve. The single-vineyard Pinots spend 14-15 months in barrel on their fine lees, while the Syrahs get a few more months in oak. At their best, the Pinots and Syrahs are compelling. Tel. (925) 254-8922