This monopole has always been cited as one of Beaune's very finest terroirs, and the 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Fèves has turned out very nicely. Bursting from the glass with a fragrant bouquet of raspberries, plums, peonies, bergamot and exotic spices, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and charming, with an enveloping core of fruit, succulent acids and melting tannins. But its charm is deceptive, as the underlying raw materials should vouchsafe at least two decades' longevity.