With each new vintage, the Ste. Michelle Artist Series honors a particular glass artist; this year it is Italo Scanga of Calabria. Yeah, but how’s the wine? Well, it’s pretty darn good. Smooth and tannic, it has soft, seductive flavors obtained by blending Bordeaux grapes from top Stimson Lane vineyards. Not quite as precisely defined as the Chateau reserve wines, it is a very drinkable blend, good, but somehow less than the sum of its parts.——P.G.(12/31/2003)—— 89