The 2004 Barolo La Rosa reveals enticing aromatics and a silky-textured core of ripe dark fruit. This, too, is made in round, supple style that emphasizes concentration over complexity. I get the impression a lot is being left on the table here, as this is a fairly anonymous offering. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Despite having changed its ownership structure recently there is sadly little reason to hope that Fontanafredda will ever right its ship as the estate is saddled with legacy issues that make it very difficult to compete in today’s environment. This is an underwhelming set of wines, especially considering the superb vineyards the estate owns. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

Clean and fruity, with perfumes of raspberry and blackberry that follow through to a medium body, with chewy tannins and a medium finish. Delivers more on the nose than the palate. Best after 2010. 1,500 cases made, 300 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add