Cropped at a derisory 15 hectoliters per hectare, the quality of Bouchard's 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot is some compensation for the lack of quantity. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of dark berries, rose petals, plums, raw cocoa and orange rind, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and velvety, with powdery tannins, lively acids and a long, fragrant finish.