The 2006 Xinomavro (which is listed on the front as just Naoussa, per appellation protocol) is Vaeni's entry level Xinomavro. It is the latest iteration of what is usually a pretty good, typical and inexpensive introduction to the Xinomavro grape. If it is a bit light, it is also pure and honest, a bright and earthy country wine with a little rusticity that you have to warm up to - but that is not hard to do. It opened a touch gamey, but that largely blew off. Granting that it sometimes seems a bit light in the mid-palate, I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of folks, particularly Piemonte lovers, were quite happy with this and felt little need to trade up in the producer's lineup. It is certainly a best buy in this lineup. You do have to accept the gamey notes, but this is a nice vintage for this bottling. I would note, though, that given the power this sometimes shows, it may surprise a lot of people who don't expect to see this much intensity in $15 wines. Drink 2012-2023. Vaeni Naoussa is a co-op that buys a large part of the Naoussa region's production. Its specialty has traditionally been Xinomavro, of course, the appellation's signature grape. Importer: Stellar Importing Co., Whitestone, NY; tel. (718) 352-1180

Pleasing from the start, this wine starts with bright notes of cherry and dried fruit, followed by a medium-bodied, firm blend of pepper, strawberry and black cherry. Restrained and fresh, it can age or be drunk now. ——S.K.(9/1/2011)—— 87