The 1996 Chardonnay Carneros is a more layered, richer, smokier, spicier wine than the Chardonnay Napa, with softer, richer flavors, and a more expansive texture. It can even be called "luscious," which may be the antithesis of Tim Mondavi's notion of a wine that is "bright, with plenty of nerve." The Mondavi Chardonnays have moved from a full malolactic style to something that Burgundy's Jacques Lardiere (the oenologist for Louis Jadot) has perfected - partial malolactic fermentation for dry, rich, full-bodied whites. This is done in order to maintain a level of natural acidity and enhance the wine's stability. Tim Mondavi has increasingly advocated this position, particularly for the house's big whites. To do so, and also get the wine into the bottle unfiltered is no easy task, but the Mondavis have succeeded.Tel. (707) 259-9463 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 963-1007.