In a challenging vintage, Artadi fashioned an outstanding 2002 Pagos Viejos. Made from 75-year old Tempranillo vines, it possesses a dark ruby/purple color as well as a sweet bouquet of cherries, black currants, licorice, and raspberries, surprising texture, depth, and richness, an elegant mouthfeel, and impressive purity as well as length. Enjoy it over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

A poster child for modern Rioja. Seriously extracted, with saturated blackberry, cola and chocolate aromas. Features excellent texture and a fine, tannic finish. If it could offer anything else, it would be additional complexity and variety. It locks onto that fruit-and-chocolate combination and doesn’t let go.——M.S.(6/1/2005)—— 91