The 2004 Pinot Noir “Terres Basses” is more darkly colored than the Emery. The nose hints of darker fruits as well as smoke and spice box. It is slightly narrow on the palate and firm but there is ample black cherry and blackberry flavored fruit to provide balance. It may prove to be the longest lived of these Pinot Noirs. Over the past 15 years Willakenzie Estate (named for the soil type on which the winery sits) has been a consistently excellent source for Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and particularly, Pinot Noir. The quality has been solid and the prices have been fair. Tel. (503) 662-3280; www.willakenzie.com. Also tasted: 2006 Pinot Gris (88), 2006 Pinot Blanc (89)