The debut release from the home estate vineyard is the 2006 Chardonnay Drake Estate. Made from this vineyard planted with Wente clones, this wine exhibits a strong character in 2006. Undeniably successful, it is an elegant Corton-Charlemagne style of wine with notes of crushed rock., lemon and orange blossoms, sweet white corn, and quince. The freshness, medium to full body, and complexity are all very promising and especially noteworthy in a vintage such as 2006. With over a dozen Pinot Noirs, one would think that winemaker Bob Cabral would be perennially stressed out having to deal with so many different vineyards. However, except for the blend of Russian River and Westside Road Neighbors, they are all legitimate vineyards, and I can fully comprehend why they would want to keep them separate. As I have said before, there is a clear “house” style, with wines tending to have a slightly higher acid profile, lower pHs. But there is no doubting that these are well-made wines which are, for the most part, age-worthy Pinot Noirs which, with some patience, reward cellaring. In 2006, a challenging vintage in the Russian River area (less so on the Sonoma Coast), the 2006 vintage has turned out well at Williams-Selyem. Of course, 2007 is a more fragrant, purer vintage from an integrity perspective, so those wines will be a no-brainer. I will comment on all the single vineyards, but as I write them, I must offer a word of advice: don’t dare ignore the brilliant Zinfandels and Chardonnays that Cabral turns out. They are not as renowned as the single-vineyard Pinots, but they are top-flight wines. A Pinot Noir that really depends on vintage for success is from the San Benito Valley south of San Francisco, home to the old Almaden winery.Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

This new release, from the winery’s estate vineyard, joins the ranks of older Williams Selyem single-vineyard Chardonnays, such as Allen and Hawk Hill, as some of California’s most massive, powerful, dry white wines. It shows aromas and flavors of orange cream pie, white peach-infused creme brulee, honey, butterscotch and toast, firmed up with crisp acidity. Almost a food group in itself, this beauty calls for lobster with melted butter.——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 95