Harvest of the Hirtzberger’s 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Rotes Tor was spread between the 13th of October and the 10th of November. It offers a lovely, subtle aroma of herbs, flowers, lentil, and yellow split pea. On the palate, this feels imposingly glossy yet buoyant, and delivers a steady, effortless flow of fruit, herb, and mineral, culminating in a strikingly long finish that leaves one’s tongue quivering in anticipation of the next sip. This wine of 12% alcohol is a model of balance and intricate complexity and proof – if some still need it – that the category Federspiel is by no means incapable of heavenly profundity even as it delivers on its more mundane promises of refreshment and adaptability at table. As such it, needless to say, represents an outstanding value. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700