The 2005 Merlot is deep crimson-colored with alluring aromas of pain grille, spice box, cranberry, red currant, and black currant. This leads to an opulent Merlot with gobs of spicy red and black fruits, silky tannins that will support 4-6 years of further evolution, superb balance, and a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. It will provide prime-time drinking from 2012 to 2025. Quilceda Creek Vintners remains a model of consistency. In the outstanding 2005 vintage, Quilceda Creek’s Cabernet Sauvignon remains the benchmark for what can be achieved in Washington and the United States. Some good news from the winery is that beginning with the 2006 vintage, there will be a new vineyard designate, a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Palengat Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The vines are only 7 years old but the potential is enormous as a taste from barrel attests.Tel.(360) 568-2389; www.quilcedacreek.com

Rich and chocolaty, this dense and detailed wine is loaded with brambly fruit, ripe cherry and baking chocolate. It’s dotted with fine-grained, coffee-streaked tannins, and finishes with highlights of butterscotch and malted milk candies. As with all the 2005 Quilceda’s, this is still young and tight. It is dominated by the barrel flavors that only slowly meld into the massive fruit with extensive breathing time (36 hours after being opened the wine was still improving).——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 93