Cogno’s 2006 Barolo Cascina Nuova is a truly beautiful wine at this level. Red cherries, sweet, perfumed roses, mint and baking spices are just some of the nuances that emerge from this beautiful, traditionally made Barolo. The Cascina Nuova shows wonderful density in a weightless style that only Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo are capable of. This is a first-class effort from start to finish. With a little air, the Cascina Nuova is enjoyable even now. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Cogno is one of Piedmont’s undiscovered jewels. From top to bottom, the wines are consistently excellent to outstanding. In recent years, the estate has made great strides with their Baroli, but readers should not look past the entry-level wines, as they merit just as much attention. Readers will have to wait until 2011 for the 2006 Barolo Bricco Pernice and 2005 Barolo Vigna Elena. In the meantime, there is no shortage of fine bottles from this small, artisan grower. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Salty licorice notes complement the cherry, menthol and spice flavors in this linear red, which is tightly wound yet balanced, with a fine spicy finish. Should develop nicely in time. Best from 2014 through 2032. 400 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Wow, what a wonderful wine, delivering rich notes of black fruit, vanilla, cherry and spice. But the aromas are in no way obvious. In fact, this is an ethereal and elegant wine that pays attention to the little details, like the light shadings of polished stone and violets that liven up the long finish. Drink after 2018. ——M.L.(12/1/2010)—— 94