Leasing land in Cannubi is very tricky and competitive. "It's a lottery," Silvia Altare tells me in her La Morra tasting room. Her lease on Cannubi is expiring this year (2023), and when I spoke to her, she was negotiating a 15-year renewal. With only 2,500 bottles released from three barrels (the first vintage from Cannubi was 2011), this is a gorgeous interpretation of Nebbiolo. The Elio Altare 2019 Barolo Cannubi is slender in form but rich and long lasting on the palate. The wine reveals tones of wild berry, crushed rose and exotic spice.

Lots of crushed stone, hints of salted caramel, and fresh flowers. Some crab apple and cranberries. Medium-bodied with plenty of tannins, but not aggressive. Rough velvet. Give this time. Better after 2028.