From the 70 year old vines planted in deep chalk-clay that formed the heart of the Poniatowski property, Chidaine’s 2005 Vouvray Clos Baudoin smells of comice pear, green tea, lime and cardamom. Very leesy and creamy on the palate, with honeyed richness of fruit only subtly impinged upon by chalk and citrus, this finishes broad and full, with pear and quince predominating, and a faint hint of heat that may reflect the price in alcohol that had to be paid to keep it dry-tasting. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191