The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Folatières has a stern and broody limestone/granite nose that is clearly not coming out to play today. The palate is more forgiving this early encounter, with pleasant pink grapefruit and orange rind notes, although it clams shut tightly near the haughty finish. Give this two or three years in bottle because there is a nascent sense of brooding intensity in situ.