A mincemeat-like mingling of carnal, brown spice, and succulent, lightly-desiccated fruit elements (cherry and plum) informs Leroux’s 2008 Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Jarrons. Bright and invigoratingly tart in its impression of fruit skin, yet polished, not chewy, and with smoky and saline suffusion, this long-finishing Pinot should entertain over the next 6-8 years if not longer. Benjamin Leroux’s negociant program is intended by him in part to serve over time for highlighting and working with potential acquisitions for his Domaine Comte Armand (for my notes on which – and Leroux’s comments on recent vintages – see under that name). While finding organic or biodynamic growers with fruit to sell is difficult, Leroux admits, he considers the minimum use of herbicides or pesticides a minimum condition for selection. His program is about to be greatly expanded – at least, in terms of the number of appellations vinified in red and white (a couple of these very exciting and unexpected). Quantities per wine will continue to be tiny. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70