Pungent, prickly aromas in Diel’s 2007 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Beerenauslese suggest that it might try to make up for the absence of Eiswein from this year’s long-hanging Riesling collection, but in fact these are manifestations of botrytis, albeit of a sort dramatically contrasting to the corresponding Auslese. Candied lemon and butterscotch characterize the richly-textured palate and long, intense, if very sweet and at present not terribly complex finish of a wine sure to last three or more decades, but unlikely, I suspect, to prove as interesting or refined as many of its stable mates. With the 2007 vintage – one Armin Diel compares with his superbly successful 2004s – daughter Caroline Diel has joined Christoph Friedrich in guiding vineyard and cellar operations here. (The 2008 vintage sees her in the estate’s leading role.) Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300