Deep and muscular, the 2018 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of pear, toasted nuts, orange oil and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and textural, with a concentrated core of fruit, ripe acids and a long, honey finish. Readers who privilege power over tension will gravitate toward this, whereas the Genevrières-Dessus and Tête du Clos will appeal more to purists.