Like the Estournelles Saint-Jacques, Duroché's 2018 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru was a touch reduced on opening, but it opened up rapidly after a quick decant, unwinding to reveal a rich, carnal bouquet of dark berry fruit, smoked meats, black truffle, baking chocolate, plums and nori. Full-bodied, layered and elegantly muscular, it's deep and concentrated, with considerable reserves of fruit and structure. This will require the most patience of any wine in the portfolio, but it also offers the greatest potential rewards.