2004 Riesling “Dr. L.” relies on contract fruit, but all of it comes from steep, slate sites. The result fits into the estate portfolio both stylistically and qualitatively, resulting in a surprisingly complex and outstanding value in nearly-dry Riesling. “It’s harder to succeed with this sort of wine than anywhere else,” remarks Loosen. Lemon, green apple, wet stone, and lightly floral aromas are followed by a crisp, slate-saturated palate and a finish of juicy citrus and apple, nut oils, mineral salts, and wet stone. For several years now, Loosen has eliminated designations of Pradikat from his dry Rieslings. Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR; tel. (510) 864-7255