The Diel 2011 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese gold capsule represents, amazingly, an advance in sheer concentration – and by some measures, at least, of complexity – over its already impressive Pittermannchen counterpart. Here, honey, caramel, and peach preserves are allied to mango and papaya, and shot through with vividly bright fresh lemon and grapefruit. At the same time, there is a striking sense of liqueur-like herbal infusion akin to anisette. Sumptuousness and unabashed sweetness reign in the finish here, too, and with slightly less of the welcome contrast or counterpoint of piquant and pungent elements that are found in the corresponding Pittermannchen. (While Goldloch gold capsule Auslese is normally auctioned, this year the Diels elected instead to auction the corresponding Pittermannchen and sell this Goldloch off of their regular price list.) Caroline Diel is now the mother of two, but shows every intention and indication of personally staying on top of her estate’s viticulture. In collaboration with long-time cellarmaster Christoph Friedrich, she is both perpetuating and further refining the styles of wine that have come to characterize and enhance the long-standing reputation of Schlossgut Diel. Picking began in the last week of September and most of the top Rieslings were harvested already in the first week of October, by which point there was a significant amount of botrytis, happily largely noble, most of it picked-out in parallel with the fruit for the Grosse Gewachse. Wisely, I think – as heaven knows they have an austere side as is – the Diels elected for the sake of moderating alcohol to leave a bit more residual sugar behind this year than usual in their Grosse Gewachse. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300