The 2008 Highland Estates Pinot Noir Los Robles is slightly better, but obviously not the bargain that the Vintner’s Reserve represents. Underbrush and floral berry and cherry notes are present in this medium-bodied wine. Anticipated maturity: now-2013. The lowest level of the Kendall-Jackson empire, the Vintner’s Reserve series, goes from strength to strength. For consumers hoping to maximize their dollar value, these serious wines are consistent choices. Their Chardonnay has always been good, but dramatic increases in quality have taken place in the Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon programs.Tel. (800) 769-3649; kjwines@kj.com

From the Los Alamos region, this young, firm Pinot wants a little time in the bottle to mellow. Tasted in January, it’s unresolved in tannins, fresh acidity, oak (76% new) and primary cherry and raspberry fruit. Should be a very fine wine sometime toward 2011.——S.H.(5/1/2010)—— 91